Hi Nicole!
I have been making tutus professionally for a few years now. The type of tutu you are referring to is a classical tutu. The other shape, with a gracefully falling skirt, is known as a romantic tutu. For the classical tutu, the nine tulle skirt layers are cut according to a ratio system, with the longest layer ended up on top. The other layers gradate by subtracting 1.5" from the prenious layer. Start at 15" (longest) and go down to 2.50" (shortest). The 11th layer is hooped/ boned. The panels you cut will also gradate in number for fullness (they will be ruffled). I can't remeber right now how many, but you can guess based on fullness. I think it may be like 8,6,5,4? My cutter/ draper and I use a set of instructions for the cutting, which I don't have at home. Sorry! I can email you another, very detailed set of instructions that I have typed up based on my own experience. The instructions are simply too complicated to write here. The document includes both a traditional princess seam bodice and the classical skirt. These are not patterns, but notes, in order, on construction. We work with slopers for each dancer, to assure a perfect fit, but you may work with a pattern. In fittings, make sure to check that the skirt is parallel to the floor when the dancer is standing. When the dancer is en pointe, the skirt will raise up in back. This is normal. You can adjust the tilt of the skirt by raising or lowering the panty at the back-waist. (All of the skirt layers must attch to a stretch panty; we use a strong white stretch mesh. Basically, use a pair of "granny panties" -- aka full briefs, to pattern it.) Send me a message if you'd like the instructions. Good luck!!